The gollyongpo or King’s robe is a royal robe worn by the king while performing his official duties. It is also called yongpo (clothes of dragon) or mangpo because it has a round bo (insignia) with the gold-thread embroidery of a dragon on the chest, back, and shoulders of the robe. The robe was introduced from the Ming dynasty of China in 1444, the 26th year of the Great King Sejong’s reign, for the first time. After Ming’s collapse, it was assimilated into Korean custom by incorporating Korea’s unique style into the design of the robe. When Gojong, upon becoming Emperor, changed the name of country to Korean Empire in 1897, the color of the robe had been changed from red to gold, the same color as that of the robe of China’s emperor. These two robes are King Gojong’s.
One is called hwalsupo with wide sleeves, whereas the other is called chaksupo with narrow sleeves. The outer cloth of hwalsupo is yellow with pattern of clouds and jewels on it. It has a round collar, whereas the lining is red with a straight collar. It looks like underwear. Both collars are sewn separately, but their bottom parts are sewn together. The round bo attached to the robe has the pattern of a dragon with five claws embroidered with gold threads. The dragon pattern on the bo attached on the chest and right shoulder has a red yeouiju (magic bead) in its mouth, symbolizing the sun. The dragon pattern on the bo attached on the back and left shoulder has a white yeouiju, symbolizing the moon. The dragon on the back has a distinctive appearance, taking on a twisted body. As such, the two robes have two images -- symbolizing the sun and the moon -- by expressing them on the chest, back, and both shoulders, respectively.
These two gollyongpo have the same shape except the width of the sleeves. After King Gojong ordered the simplification of the design of formal robes for civic and military officials in the 32nd year of his reign (1895), he apparently wore gollyongpo with narrow sleeves as well on his own initiative.King Gojong wore this gollyongpo during the late Korean Empire period. These robes provide valuable information in studying the sewing style of the Royal court.